Careful Catch and Release Tactics

The careful care and handling of trout to give them the best chance of survival is something I am very passionate about, and I don’t see it discussed as much as possibly it should be! I have been fortunate enough to study and work with trout, salmon and many different species of New Zealand native fish for the last 24 years, during which time I have often been able to monitor and assess different handling methods and the short and long term effects of these on fish. The following points are my views from my experience on this topic.

The theory that trout are as tough as old boots isn’t quite true. They do put up with some pretty extreme environmental stresses, including flooding, warm water/low oxygen, predation, and sometimes intense competition, but like any animal they have their limits. Sometimes even just a second or two of careless handling while being played, or in the landing/release process, can lead to a prolonged and painful end for these beautiful creatures.

With our fisheries under increased pressure and with more frequent extreme flooding events becoming the norm, our trout populations need all the help they can get in order for them to remain the world class fisheries that they currently are! Ultimately you want to know that when the fish swims off it will have the best chance of survival possible. We should all be working to reduce the factors that can have a negative influence on or stress the fish, and the following points in my opinion help to mitigate the potential harm to trout when being caught and released.

Use strong tippets

Use as strong a tippet as possible which cannot be detected by the fish or negatively affect the natural movement/presentation of the fly, and check tippet condition constantly when fishing to reduce prolonged fights, and snapping off flies and tippet on lost fish.

Before casting to every sighted fish I go through a routine of testing every knot and running my fingers up all of the terminal tippet material to make sure that there are no weaknesses or damage. Do this and you will lose fewer fish! Using strong tippets usually allows an angler to more quickly land a fish, resulting in less stress and exhaustion for both the fish and angler.

Barbed versus barbless hooks

Most anglers want every advantage they can over the fish, but the use of barbless or crushed barb hooks, to allow for quick fly removal and reduced harm to the trout when removing hooks from sensitive areas, can only be positive for the fish.

I have seen various forum discussions on how barbless hooks penetrate further than barbed hooks and are therefore worse, but I have never seen any evidence of this causing a problem in my past 30 years of fly fishing, probably 25 of these using barbless or crushed barbed hooks. I have heard that some earlier designed barbless hooks in the 1980s were found to cause some damage to some trout’s jaws by penetrating into the bony structure, but that the same ill effects do not appear to be caused by the more modern barbless hook designs. Interestingly, crushed barbed hooks are often considered better than barbless by some anglers, as they are easily removed and usually don’t penetrate as far as pure barbless hooks. It only takes a second to crush a barb to possibly make a difference!

Quite often I find my fly will have fallen out of the trout’s mouth in the landing net prior to me manually removing it, and from my experience it only slightly reduces landing rates when compared to using barbed hooks. Ultimately it makes me feel good that I know the fish will much more likely be fine if lost.

There is no question that barbed hooks do fall out over extended periods of time, however the theory that hooks rust out of a trout’s mouth doesn’t quite ring true to me. I once placed a standard bronzed Kamasan fly hook in a jar of water and monitored it for over a month, with the hook remaining brand new in condition with no signs of rust or corrosion. Different water chemistry or varied dissolved oxygen levels would influence the oxidation of the steel differently, as potentially would the fish’s blood enzymes, but I suspect that the theory often espoused, that lost flies will rust out of a trout’s mouth relatively quickly, is pretty inaccurate, with the likely exception of a saltwater or estuarine environment! This theory is further strengthened by a study in which hook retention was scientifically tested. This article and several other interesting links are listed below if you would like to check it out.

• http://www.nesportsman.com/articles/article11.shtml
• https://anglingunlimited.com/fishing/catch-release-properly/
• https://www.fishingskillz.com/do-fish-hooks-dissolve/

The following short term scenario is one of my largest motivations to use barbless hooks myself, as in some situations there could be a significant problem with fish which have broken off entering and becoming entangled in snags, especially if a double/dropper rig is used with strong tippet. In such situations the tired fish will likely head for the security of the cover of an undercut bank etc, where the trailing fly could then entangle in tree roots or other objects/structure. A 4 pound fish cannot get up enough swimming momentum to snap off 7lb/4X tippet to escape a snag, and may therefore not likely survive an exhausting attempt at getting free of being attached to an object with multiple flies and strong tippets. So perhaps at a minimum it would be sensible to consider using a single fly only, or crushed barbed flies, in waters with snags and abundant tree root cover in order to improve the likelihood of a lost fish’s survival!

Gloves or bare hands

There has always been the big debate on whether it is better to use gloves/pantyhose or bare hands/no gloves when handling fish. Once again I have seen this discussed in many forums over the years, however as yet I haven’t seen the results of any definitive scientific study on this topic.

There is no question that you will have a better grip on the fish using gloves, possibly sometimes even preventing the dropping of a fish held above the water, but the most important factor to consider is that you will notice more protective mucous membrane is removed from the trout’s skin onto even pre-wet gloves, compared to pre-wet hands.

The protective mucous membrane is the trout’s anti-bacterial/antifungal and osmoregulatory protective coating, which is the fish’s natural defence against the growth of unwanted pathogens/fungus on the fish’s skin, and also in some instances helps to maintain the constant internal environment within the fish. Although this layer can be replaced by the fish, even temporary removal of this protective layer can allow the unwanted growth of fungus. From just a few moments of careless handling I have watched a 15lb rainbow trout slowly (and likely painfully) meet its end, as fungus slowly grew from the areas which had been in contact with a person, all over the fish’s body.

It is important to protect against this whenever possible, and to me it appears that less mucous is removed by wet hands compared to wet gloves. All the scientists I have worked with over the years have preferred the use of pre-wet hands over gloves, so this in itself must add some strength to the argument!

Pre-saturate sun gloves

If you choose to wear gloves when handling fish, try to consciously wet them well in advance of touching a fish. I make a habit of doing this while playing a trout prior to netting. If dry, the open porous weave structure of the nylon material (usually used in the construction of fly fishing gloves) will absorb the protective membrane of the fish as it absorbs water for several seconds upon immersion, and overall using gloves, although providing more grip, also removes more protective mucous membrane from the trout’s skin. If you compare the two surfaces, gloves will be much more slimy compared to wet hands when checked after releasing a fish.

On many occasions in the excitement of landing a fish I have seen anglers grab for a floundering fish’s tail to help direct it into a net prior to wetting their gloves, very likely causing increased loss of the protective membrane. The pre-wetting of gloves and hands is also very important to cool down the surfaces coming in contact with the fish, and this point will be touched on in more detail shortly.

Avoid prolonged holding in one location

Try to avoid holding onto fish at one location (i.e. the tail) for extended periods without periodically (every 20 seconds or so) reducing the grip slightly to allow fresh cooling water to surround the fish’s skin. This is especially important when handling fish with bare hands, as it reduces the apparent thermal effect which I have heard some experienced anglers comment on as potentially “burning” the trout’s skin.

Pre-wet landing net mesh

Try to remember to pre-wet the landing net mesh in the water when the fish is being played, prior to landing. Depending on the type of netting used in the construction of the net bag, this will both soften and cool down the net mesh material that will come in contact with the trout prior to landing. Black plastic mesh landing nets transported on an angler’s back in direct sunlight while fishing can sometimes get quite hot, and will take several seconds to cool down when submerged in the water!

It is definitely better for the fish to use knotless mesh, and ideally the newer plastic coated mesh which absorbs less protective mucous membrane. The black plastic mesh is harder to hold in heavy water flows compared to the older green finer mesh, due to the increased surface area and subsequent larger water resistance, but the older green knotless mesh also usually entangles the jaws of some fish (especially jacks) more easily, resulting in increased handling time when releasing a fish.

The entanglement of the trout’s maxillae is also much more likely in the finer green mesh with the wider gaps, and it is possible to tear this part of the fish’s jaw if it is entangled and the landing net is lifted from the water to weigh the fish. In such situations it is always good to detangle the trout’s jaw and maxillae before lifting the fish, and it is always a good idea to lay the fish flat in the bottom of the net bag to avoid excessive bending of the fish’s body when being lifted. This is especially important with larger/heavier fish in “mousey” condition.

Keep fish close to the water when lifted for a photo

It is good practice to keep fish close to the water at a low height when removing it from the water to take a photo, just in case the angler accidentally drops it. It usually makes for a much “sexier” natural photo as well, which will be respected by other anglers! The “Keep Em Wet” movement can also only be positive for those anglers who are happy to have a photo of the fish in the water, as opposed to the common out of the water “grip and grin” shot.

I always try to choose a location where the water is deep enough to remove a fish from the net, so that if it is dropped the water will soften the impact on the fish. Seeing a fish dropped onto hard rocks on the bottom in shallow water, or any hard surface, is something that can usually be avoided with a little foresight.

Avoid beaching fish on dry, sharp or hard surfaces

If possible avoid beaching a fish on sharp rocks or any uneven/rough surface, and make sure the surface is already wet. If the fish is not fully tired it can flap around aggressively, resulting in sometimes harmful damage to the fish.

Allow time for a good blood clot to set if a landed fish is bleeding

Remove the fly quickly and leave the fish in the net in a quiet flow area if possible to allow the bleeding to clot (sometimes up to 4 minutes in my experience). Don’t think that the trout won’t survive if it is bleeding, as has been documented in previous historic articles. A little blood can look like a lot, and can appear to always come from the gills due to the respiratory water flow in through the mouth and out through the operculum/gills.

In my experience most bleeding will clot, the fish will swim away, and trout should not be expected to die! By letting a fish go carefully there is at least a chance, and survival should be considered likely! Salmon smolt can have their very sensitive gill filaments cut off using scissors, causing significant bleeding, and still have this clot, so in my opinion there is hope for fish even bleeding significantly.

Once the bleeding has stopped it is important to keep the fish in the net for at least another 2 minutes to ensure a good clot hold at the site of the wound, before carefully releasing the fish. This just prevents a sensitive clot from being dislodged due to premature release and exertion on the fish, as it swims away to find cover.

Choose a safe release location

In a moving water environment always try to find a safe location out of the heavy flow to release a fish if possible, especially if a long hard fight has occurred. It is sometimes necessary to carefully walk a tired fish up or downstream to a suitable area, with the fish remaining in the water at all times/as much as possible, to reach a safe release location. A quiet edge can be good enough, but a large quiet area nearby can give the fish a better recovery location.

Also, if the fish is exhausted and heavy water/rapids are present at the release location, it is good practice to remove all your gear/rod etc to a location well below the fish, and then slowly release it into the water where it will hopefully sit and rest. It is then possible to slowly back off behind the fish out of view, and with all the gear removed you wouldn’t then be seen by the fish again, thus preventing it being scared into the surrounding rough water prematurely, prior to a good recovery.

If there is some water flow at the release location there is no need to actively push the fish back and forth to increase water flow over the gills, as the gill movements of the fish will be adequate to allow effective counter-current oxygen transfer. This may be necessary in a stagnant water location, or where there are a lot of loose sediments on the stream/lake bottom causing the fish to inhale sediment into the gills, thus causing blocking/clogging of the gill membranes. Ultimately any reduced physical stress or premature exercise can only be a positive thing to increase a fish’s chance of survival.

Remove flies with the fish’s gills in the water

Remember these fish have just been fighting for their lives and are likely exhausted, just like us having run a marathon. After heavy physical activity such as being played on a fly rod, the metabolic nitrogenous wastes such as ammonia built up in the fish’s blood need to be excreted from the trout’s blood system via the gill membranes, into the surrounding water.

After a fight, if a trout is removed from the water for excessive periods, not only can they not get the essential oxygen they need, but also these metabolic nitrogenous wastes, which would normally be excreted into the water, then build up in the blood, essentially resulting in blood poisoning. The fish may swim off and appear fine, but perhaps a few hours later or even longer, the fish may not survive due to being held out of the water for too long! Think “Gills in the water at all times!”

Only remove the fish from the water for short periods when taking photographs

I base my timing on 5 seconds, then if I take a little longer this shouldn’t be a major problem. I have heard a maximum time of 10 seconds bandied around in some forums due to information from a scientific study, but aiming for a shorter period of time can only be good.

I have the camera ready and get the angler to remove the fish from the water for 5 seconds at a time to take several quick photos, before placing the fish back in the net to get some oxygen. After a brief removal from the water the fish should then be allowed at least another 20 seconds of breathing time before being removed from the water again, if a second photo opportunity is necessary.

In my opinion there is nothing cooler than seeing a photo of a fish being admired by an angler with beads of water dripping off its body, strongly suggesting that the fish has only been removed from the water for a short time and handled carefully! Often with modern technology it is possible to set a camera or cell phone for rapid fire photo taking, in order to get multiple photos of the trout in different positions as it is lifted from the net and released in a single several-second-long motion. Alternatively a quick video of the release may be preferable to an angler as well.

Avoid lifting fish vertically just from the tail

Avoid lifting the fish by its tail, as all its weight is transferred through the spine. This is important with heavier fish, perhaps 5lbs and larger, where the vertebrae can dislocate in some instances because of the increased weight stress involved. Instead hold the tail and support the fish under the pectoral girdle/the head operculum area, making sure not to allow fingers to enter the sensitive internal operculum/gill area, or come in contact with the sensitive eyes.

This is especially important with larger overweight fish, such as fish showing “mousey” condition, where when removed from the neutral buoyancy water environment, all the fish’s weight may be point loaded on the sensitive internal organs if held further back in the stomach area, away from the strengthened pectoral/bony region of the fish.

Removing flies can be easier when the fish is turned upside down

When removing the fly from the trout, turn it upside down in the net by holding its tail. This can sometimes be difficult with fresher/less tired fish, but inverting the fish will cause them to go into a state of “tonic immobility” or a “mellow out” type state, like that exhibited by sharks in many wildlife documentaries. This allows for much easier handling of a relatively less active fish, allowing for easier hook/fly removal.

Tail first fish removal from the net

I have found the safest way to remove a fish from the submerged landing net bag prior to being photographed is to remove the fish from the net tail first. One will often see people lifting the fish head first out of the net, and at this point all it takes is a flick of the tail and the fish can be lost prior to a photo being taken. I have seen this happen on many occasions, and the usual disappointed look on an angler’s face, although “priceless”, is always something to try to avoid if at all possible.

Limit squeezing or large amounts of pressure when holding a fish

Hold the trout’s tail reasonably firmly without too much pressure to cause bruising, but do not squeeze the fish further forward of the tail. As listed above, the trout’s gills and eyes are the least protected and most sensitive areas, which should be carefully avoided, with no pressure or squeezing of these areas occurring when the fish is being handled.

The fish can be supported just using the fingertips up under the pectoral fins or head, and when taking a photo you will see more of the beautiful side of the fish if it is cradled on fingertips, rather than with the fingers protruding up the front side of the fish which is being photographed. This will give you a much better photo showing the full beautiful side of the fish.

Wooden floating landing nets make excellent floating cages

Although they may not be every angler’s preference, a floating net anchored to the stream bottom of slow flowing water using an attached nylon strap acts as an excellent floating cage to securely hold a landed fish. The floating frame of the net does not collapse over a netted trout as with other net types, which can sometimes restrict gill breathing movements.

It also acts as a self-secure cage which the trout can sit in while you sort your camera for a photo, or to place the fish in between 5 second photo taking intervals, to allow it time to recover without escaping. This also acts as a great place to carefully drop a fish into if it starts wriggling when removed from the water, preventing an angler from having to squeeze the fish too hard to prevent it from escaping when completely removed from a sinking type net.

A floating frame net is also ideal for use in boating situations, where the net can be allowed to float in the water securely holding a landed trout, making the handling and release of the fish a much easier two-handed procedure. This further prevents a fish from having to be lifted from the water into a boat for easier removal of a fly.

Some other things to remember when out on the water

• If possible avoid fishing water warmer than 20 degrees Celsius. The warmer water will contain less dissolved oxygen, and played fish can be put under extreme stresses when exerting themselves in such conditions.
• Don’t always aim to catch every fish you see. If you and your companions have had a good day landing a good number of fish, don’t over-pressure the fishery by continuing to catch every fish you see. Maybe this is a good opportunity to check out another alternative location.
• If a fish appears to be in poor condition or stressed in some way, then maybe leave it alone and try to find other “happy” fish. Often darker coloured fish sitting in the quieter edges are showing signs of stress, whether due to being previously caught, or perhaps some other environmental or condition related factor.
• Pick up rubbish and retain used tippet material carefully instead of discarding it. The “Monomaster” waste tippet holder is the best product I have found here in New Zealand which carefully stores waste tippet of all lengths, until it can be safely cut up and disposed of at a future time.

Final thoughts

I hope that some of this information will prove helpful, and that some of the points listed above will hopefully represent some good topics of discussion amongst other friends and fellow anglers when next out on the water. As previously mentioned these views are my own, based on my experience, and are not gospel; however I think they are a pretty good representation of many careful catch and release tactics that some of you might consider thinking about or practising next time you are out fishing.

My ultimate aim with writing this article is that more fish will swim away and have the best chance of survival after being released. All the best with the coming fishing season!